kazoo_kING

Here is today’s update on my 3D printable 1/6 Invincible action figure:

I’ve made another head sculpt, this new head sculpt is a grinning face where he’s showing his teeth. I’ve also updated his yelling face to have the mouth open even more, that was a suggestion from @BrickCollectsAndStuff and I think it looks even better now. This puts the figure at 4 separate head sculpts.

I also sculpted 3 more hands for him, check the second photo to see them all, he’s now at 7 different sets of hands.

I won’t be able to print anything other than hands until my new filament roll arrives on Friday, it’s taking a bit longer to arrive due to the weather. My current filament roll almost ran out, in the meantime I’ll be finishing the updated legs and ankles to the Invincible figure. I have a lot of time since I’ve got a snow day Monday also due to the weather, so I want to try to work on a new figure sculpt.

If you want me to add even more head sculpts or hands, or even accessories please let me know, I will definitely consider it, just leave a comment with your idea. I might look into accessories that he can hold which I can make, similar to how I made a Dragon Radar accessory for my Bunny Suit Bulma action figure. Again, any ideas please let me know.

Thanks for stopping by, and have an amazing day.

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9 hours ago | [YT] | 9

kazoo_kING

Here’s the third update on my 3D printable Invincible action figure design:

My plan from the last post worked great and I’ve upgraded to double joints that are easily printable and they work pretty good. They have to have the hole in the side where the bar goes, if they don’t then the support will be VERY difficult to remove. The holes make it easy to push the support out. They’re similar to pin joints in Marvel Legends action figures.

I’ve also upgraded to disk shoulders, there isn’t too much more range compared to the last shoulder design which were basically the same technology as the upper leg ball joints, but the disk ones look a lot better and they are standard in modern action figures. I added waist swivel as well, and I also updated the wrist to hand connection point, they’re much easier to print compared to previous wrist peg designs I’ve made which you had to dig the support out of. He also has 2 more hands sculpted, putting him at 6 sets of hands, and I’m looking to make 1 more pair still. The new arms now have bicep swivel, though the previous single jointed ones did not need bicep swivel because they had swivel at the elbow.


I’m almost out of filament, I have another roll ordered but I might run out before I get it in the mail. I definitely don’t have enough to print his new upper torso.

I also received book 1 of the Hi Score Girl manga (English translation). It’s very good and I might model some characters from it while I wait for my new filament to arrive. I highly recommend it, the volumes are quite cheap too. It’s great to see more relatively niche manga series with great translations and affordable physical volumes.

I’ve attached photos showing the improved design. The first photo shows all the pieces I have printed for his new design so far, as stated already I kept the head and neck and torso joint the same since those are already the best I can do, and are double jointed with great range. On the second photo, the arm on the top is the old single jointed one, the new double jointed one is on the bottom.

Have a great day and thanks for reading. Swipe through to see all the images.

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1 day ago | [YT] | 12

kazoo_kING

This is an important update regarding my Invincible 3D printed action figure.

Here’s the issue: he does use single jointed elbows and knees. They only reach 45 degrees. This is because the double jointed disk elbows and knees I used on the Bunny Suit Bulma figure, are very difficult to remove support material on when the character has thicker arms (Bulma has regular sized arms, and Mark has wider muscular arms). I actually did make double jointed disk elbows for him originally, but I probably spent 1 whole hour trying to remove the support off the inside of the elbow on the lower arm.

My solution? I think I’m gonna fully redesign his elbows and knees with double joints, but holes going through the sides similar to a Marvel Legends figure, so I can push the support material out easily. I don’t think single joints on elbows and knees are passable and respectable when there are better ways to make them. The torso, neck, and head will probably stay the same, those parts do use double joints with great articulation. I’m also thinking of adding a swivel joint at the waist if I can fit it.

I don’t know if the solution will work, but I will try my best to make him easily printable while still keeping the good articulation. He will probably be delayed for up to another week.

I attached photos shown off in the previous post of the single jointed elbows and knees.

What do you think?

Thanks for stopping by, have a great day.

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1 day ago | [YT] | 23

kazoo_kING

Here is more info about my 1/6 3D printed Invincible (season 1 version) action figure:

3 head sculpts:
A yelling head
A teeth gritting head
And a neutral smiling head

4 current hand pairs:
A karate chopping hand set
A neutral relaxed hand set
A pointing finger hand set
A fist hand set

Check out my most recent Youtube Short showing some of him printed and his articulation if you haven’t seen it already.

I’m also probably going to sculpt another hand set for him, if you have any recommendations for other hands then DEFINITELY LET ME KNOW and I might sculpt it.

Make sure to click for full images, and swipe, I’ve included photos of his joint system too.

He is probably fully finished in terms of design (unless one of the parts does not work), I am currently printing his thighs, then I have a few things left to print.

I’m hoping to have him finished on Sunday, he will be free for download on Cults3D and Thingiverse, links will be provided for anyone who wants to print him once I’m done.

He was fully sculpted from scratch by me, I used Tinkercad for the main joints, and SculptGL for the body sculpting and refining.

Thanks for reading, and have a great day, if you have any questions, any recommendations, anything at all, let me know in the comment section.

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2 days ago | [YT] | 24

kazoo_kING

3D designing with low poly models is so insanely insufferable. It’s genuinely the worst. I’m trying to repair or remesh a low poly model around 300 KB. It has inside geometry that I want gone since I filled in holes in Blender. Using an STL repair should work, but only one website works to fix the model without ruining it… oh but 150 people are waiting in line for it. And once I become the 40th person in line it completely freezes. The other 2 STL repairs completely fail every time.

Now the other option is using the remesh tool that a lot of modeling softwares have like blender… great now my 344 KB 3D model is now… 311 MB?!? That literally should be illegal. How is that even possible? IS THERE LITERALLY ANY WAY TO REMESH A LOW POLY MODEL? Why can’t I just keep the exact faces of the model but fix the inside with a remesh? We are literally in 2026, we are the most advanced we have ever been by far, and there is no good option to fix/remesh a 344 KB model without multiplying the triangle count by 500. Literally went from a few thousand triangles, to 6.5 fucking million. Who ever needs that?! And of course if I make the detail lower, it looks horrible, even though… the formware STL repair fixes it perfectly every single time? But blender can’t?? So damn insufferable, this should be the most easily fixable problem ever and only one way works but I have to wait multiple hours in line for it. Why doesn’t blender just have a STL repair that works? Or a remesh feature that actually keeps the detail and faces without making it go from 344 KB to 311 MB?

6 days ago (edited) | [YT] | 7

kazoo_kING

New action figure project coming soon! Here we have the AR Lefty model from FNaF AR, imported into Tinkercad. I wanted to try to use an official model, since my last FNaF project Spring Bonnie was alright but since the model was made from scratch by me, it just wasn’t perfect. Since the Lefty models’ parts are hollow like an animatronic, I have to manually close the holes using Blender to add the joints, which is shown in the second photo attached. Thanks for reading and stay tuned.

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1 week ago | [YT] | 11

kazoo_kING

Here are 3 3D printed Symbiote Spider-Man heads from the Spider-Man action figure that I designed a while back. They’re all the same heads. I used 3 different slicers and these are the results. Astroprint is by far the best, Ultimaker Cura comes in second with a bit of warping where the supports were, and Creality couldn’t print all the way. The heads were printed upside down in TPU filament, with I think almost the exact same settings for each slicer. Astroprint doesn’t generate supports anymore, so I cannot use Astroprint for 3D printing, which is sad because it is the best one I’ve ever used and the Ultimaker Cura result isn’t too great, but at least it’s better than Creality slicer.

I’m trying to get back into 3D printing but the slicers are so trash, literally 90% of them are completely unusable garbage, so I can’t guarantee that I will. Maybe I’ll just have to make action figures with the warping at the top in Ultimaker Cura, because what other option do I even have? Maybe I did something wrong, anyway if you have a good slicer recommendation or you think I did something wrong in the other two slicers then let me know. Each slicer result is labeled.

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1 week ago | [YT] | 17

kazoo_kING

Hello everyone. HUGE news. I MIGHT have just figured out how to upload the .pmk files (instruction files) for my paper craft models on Cults3D and thingiverse. This means that ANYONE can download my paper craft models and build them. A .pmk file has both a 2D and 3D file thingy. You basically just upload the PMK to Papercraftmaker (and possibly Pepakura) and you can select any individual piece, it will show you the valley folds, where the piece goes, and which page it is on. I didn’t realize that when Cults3D says you can upload a Zip file, it means ANY file format inside of a Zip, not just STL, OBJ, and 3MF. Anyway here’s a photo of my Osaka paper craft that I’m working on.

2 weeks ago | [YT] | 13

kazoo_kING

Hi guys, I am still trying to get back into 3D printing. As you may know, I’ve done a lot of 3D printed projects like action figures in the past. That all changed when my slicer, Astroprint, that previously worked flawlessly, had the support settings not work anymore (supports have not generated for a few weeks now).

So I got a Windows laptop for Christmas, to use the Creality slicer, which is my literal 3D printer brand, and it is really terrible. It’s laughably bad. I just tested an old Astroprint file with PLA, and the first layer printed flawlessly as always. Whenever I do the same with a Creality slicer file, it basically carries the outside filament lines into the other lines and becomes a jumbled mess. Anyways, I hate slicer softwares, if you have any ideas on how I can fix that or you want me to clarify anything then let me know. Thanks, bye.

2 weeks ago | [YT] | 2

kazoo_kING

New video coming soon. I’ve designed a life size bust sculpture of Ayumu Kasuga (Osaka) from Azumanga Daioh. She’s going to be a paper craft model. Possibly going to make a full body character in the future if this one is successful.

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3 weeks ago | [YT] | 23