In my opinion, all the higher quality ammo is far better than used to be, definitely. I feel like there's a lot of very good quality ammo today and seems to be making a big difference between the manufacturers to make better quality ammo !! It's About Damn Time !! All the things you mentioned are important for Me !! That's why I don't buy certain brands ammo anymore because it's just not very good shooting. There's clearly certain brands that are putting out Damn near handloaded quality ammo today, and that's Awesome !!
1 year ago | 0
i was going to say i wish we could pick multiple cause consistent velocity and group size matters but then again consistent velocity comes under group size
1 year ago | 1
I only run factory ammo in my bolt guns during barrel break-in. So, for me, it's all about cost and saving my components for load work ups. (I know barrel break-in is a controversial subject, but I have a 100 round routine that I do with every rifle that I've ever owned. I don't know if it actually helps, but I haven't gotten a "bad" rifle yet. So, it really helps with my confidence down the road, and that is just as important as a good shooting rifle, IMO.)
1 year ago | 2
If it’s hunting ammo, group size is most important to me, as I’m not hunting at distances past 200 yards at the moment. But usually when I buy factory ammo, it’s because the loaded ammo doesn’t cost much more than the new brass that’s available for a given cartridge and I need the brass.
1 year ago | 0
I would add: 1. Availability (if I want more of it, or I want to buy it again, will it be available?) 2. Terminal performance (e.g. for my 375 H&H I don’t need pinpoint accuracy, but it needs to perform on very tough animals)
1 year ago | 0
I would say brass quality. I buy 223 Lapua simply because they don't make the brass only anymore.
1 year ago | 0
The only factory ammo I buy is for carry pistols and 5.45x39. And those have very different parameters of intent 😂 Before I started reloading it was 100% determined by price though. I had absolutely no idea that cheap ammo correlated with poor accuracy. I thought precision was determined by the barrel/gun and the lethality was determined by the bullet. Boy, have I learned a lot from hand loading lo
1 year ago | 0
Its only for the Brass and to build confidence with the Rifle i never had a Rifle that doesnt shoot well with Geco Target HP (223 308 6.5x55 6.5 Creed 30-06) the Brass is excellent for my Shooting (mostly Hunting) it is the Same as RWS Norma cause they all belong together, the Projectiles are also the same as RWS Scorion and Norma Golden Target, but they are 30% less expensive (i know a Guy that works for RWS it is the Same Brass but they dont do the last 2 Polishing Routines on the Brass for Geco ...) so i normally buy 4 Boxes of 50 when i have a new Rifle and start with it, then i have Headspace Numbers and Fireformed Brass and have seen how the Rifle is behaving
1 year ago | 0
Consistency in velocity (my mind that means the projectiles performance) so I can focus on refining my ability
1 year ago | 0
I have 2 mindsets for hunting rifles, my southeast guns and my out west guns. Southeast guns I would say group size. My out west guns I worry more about ES and SD.
1 year ago | 0
Bullet weight and construction. Although, I try to avoid factory ammo whenever possible.
1 year ago | 0
If I bought, or acquired through a trade a New rifle, I would only buy one brand of ammunition for my personal break in and Zero, after I had mounted scopes, rings, and/or did a complete tear down, deep cleaning and reassembly of the Long Arm in question. It was often redundant work, but this allowed me to start on a level surface for my evaluation. If a New rifle, it was for test, barrel break in and initial sight in to Zero. I could see how the rifle was working with "Brand X".. It is was a used rifle, after the "freshening Up", I could tell if "Brand X was working with the rifle. I have two used rifles that were almost thrown at me because the friends that had them really weren't doing what they were supposed to be doing, properly.. After I scrubbed the old girls down, and cleaned up properly, remounted the scopes, and Etc. My "Brand X" test results told me a lot in a few minutes. After I got some Alternate Brands of ammo, it was glaringly obvious the rifles "preferred" Brands H and M. Once I started reloading the brass that was given to/accumulated by me, I could custom tailor the loads to what they loved. With all my rifles, this is my goal. The "Friends" that had foisted the rifles off on me were surprised that I could shoot out to and beyond 300m with their rifles they couldn't hit the wall of a barn from the inside at 10 feet! As we know, sometimes it's not the machinery....... It's the Dead Nut at the switch......🙄😆😆 For me, starting with Brand X, I can start with a known given point where I can analyze the performance. I'm crazy and I know it 😜.
1 year ago (edited) | 0
Projectile - 150 ft/s more won’t do me any good if the the projectile isn’t suited for target at distance
1 year ago (edited) | 2
I buy factory ammo when I want to pay too much for inconsistent results.
1 year ago | 0
Bolt Action Reloading
If you are buying factory ammo, what is your most important selection criteria other than application (hunting vs target). If I missed it please comment!
1 year ago | [YT] | 43