(Edited again)I can't draw real well, but I can come up with a nice design. And since I'll never be able to buy this myself.... Design created by John Saltz O'Huigin.
MOONBOW 327/SWB Camper Pick-up, est. 50-100,000$?!
BUILDER? Foose or Count; depending on the skill of the frame shops being used, the interior guys, and engine builders available. Foose for wheel design. (No shit electrical mapping or loose wiring under dash or bed. Clean electrical architecture for all computer/brain and gauges. Whoever I feel is best at this.)
85 Chevy Silverado SWB. Replace Silverado emblems with Satin billet aluminum emblems reading, 'Moonbow'. Odds are you wouldn't get a 4 bolt main block if not in a 4x4. So a 2x4 conversion option would be great considering the level of modification required for this build.
Stance, ready to pounce. I don't want fender cutters. Only as high as it needs to be.
Drivetrain/Under Hood: A. 350, 4 bolt main block, built down to a 327, New crank, rod, and piston, obviously, Garret turbocharger, Eldelbrock fuel infection. Automatic trans. 4 core aluminum radiator, 2 electric fans, GREEN FLUID! A/C, heat. Additional back-up battery? (Small toolbox if room; lid and key? maybe a space behind passenger seat; diagnostic extras?) Heavy alternator.
B. Small Honda generator, or a quality 4 stroke creation with generator head, etc., if possible, over front of passenger fender well? Vented from under wheel well or grill? No flammable gas build up from exhaust under hood! Electric push button start and stop, 3 locations, at source and, on console/dash, and near tailgate. Feed from passenger fuel tank. Or an independent pump to tank set up pulling from main, with a line shut off. Thermal wrap and panel deflection on generator, no hot spot on exterior panel, color shifting issue I suppose?
Rear End: Aluminum, independent (Jaguar if possible? Something that was made by an actual car manufacturer and looks like it belongs under the truck), no cutting through frame, notch only. Hot bolts and brackets preferred. Partial frame cut/notch, rib to support cut section. (Overlap, 3d diagram between the two rear ends, match centerlines, build frame and connection supports to match, thicken to remove dimensional twist in relation to distance over force?) Catwalking is so not cool.
Front End: best racing front end equipment available. All ball joints and must have grease fittings.
Brakes: 4 wheel disk.
Hinged Door, Tailgate: Open from driver side, hinge on passenger side. Door handle, top left corner, below the body line/bend. Tailgate bezel insert: ((1)? After painting, Great Hunt scene, laser etched in paint of insert?) (Option 2)Plain, smooth. A great picture is hard to find, especially when I don't know what it should look like.
Roll Pan 1. Split bumper; satin aluminum, 1/2in? rounds. Thicker than it is height. Top; cross-etch a textured traction section of where a foot should go, in centerline with frame support location. Only the depth of the textured traction itself. The obvious spot to step. Two round aluminum connection rods for each bumper; adjustment screw on the downward press point intersecting with the frame for stepping force; No twist when stepping up. Enough distance not to toe scar the paint. But just barely.
2. The Pan Itself: 1/2-5/8 inch bead around outer edge of the bumpers insert box; leave the illusion of the bumper being able to insert into the slot, or slide into the Pan. ? (Coin the ends of the frame if they're in the way of these boxes.)
3. Back-up Lights: at each end of the Pan, 2" round, smooth face/edge to surface, slight convex, in centerline with the bumper boxes. Try to keep a 1 1/2 inch perimeter at the very least. License Plate: perimeter, chamfered, close fit, with a square travel hitch hookup behind the plate. The plate should be mounted on a travel adapter jack with pin. Pull pin, remove plate with housing, reposition to square slot on trailer.
Tail Lights: smooth face/edge with body, slightly convexed. Take 2-2 1/2"+ off past the bend the original light, past the turn, that reflector section. Weld spacer to quarter. Tail/parking and turn light only.
Front Fender: remove rectangular turn signal, replace with 2" round signal, convex, like back-up light, only yellow. Emblem: 65 Chevelle V8 like 327 style aluminum emblem, centered, 6+/- inches above 2" turn light? Below body line for sure. Emblem; Bead?/Recess emblem, with a lip that rolls into the emblem, whereas the other side then rolls curls out to surface. (probably not bad for the rear bumpers). Or 327 numeric, more modern smooth numbers. Matching the numerals used on Gold clear coat stripe on hood?
Front Bumper?: satin aluminum, same like dimensions as the original. Keep the surface of the bumper squared and machined smooth. Round need to be larger than on rear. No bolt heads showing on the surface..
All Door Handles: Aluminum billet with locks. 2006 Malibu style with finger recess, including on tail gate. Biometric thumb print pad on one end of the Billet handle? Pulling actuator pin from door gear assembly, a hardpin on the mechanism itself? Do they have that? I think below bodyline might be to far down for the doors, the tail gates ok since the gate is real thin, but I guess ??? maybe far enough down so the finger recess cuts off the bodyline? Handle maybe a 1/2-9/16-3/4-1' above the bodyline, into the slope, just forward the skin of the door?
Aluminum Billet, Satin, 3x5 side mirrors.
Hood: I would prefer a cut and tig/mig cowl of the original hood. 2-2 1/2". After market hoods sound like shit when they shut. The support ribs suck. Not as rigid. To flexible.
Grill: 86 Suburban style, full rectangle, 4 head lights on top row. Two turn signals and two fog/spot light on inside, second row. Center; Chevrolet name, recessed as they are on newer 2018+/- style? Same style of center section. With honeycomb inserts behind, black satin or same color as wheels. Smooth roll on the bezel, try and match the center Chevrolet section to the original. (Leave spot for Turbocharger insert, Ram in honeycomb? I have no freaking idea what it needs, if it doesn't need it don't worry about it.)
Interior: 1. All Black Leather: Electric bucket seats (block like cushioning, medium/firm, a good fit for the body, not squishy or sinking, but not bricks either). Bucksin floor mats. Black Carpet.
2. A two part universal mount for seating and console: 1" hardened, solid, rectangular steel for seat frame. Use the existing 4 seat mounts in floor, add 2 extra bolt mounts in center front, to keep from sinking when seated. You'll be using seat belt bolt mounts to fasten rear of seat frame to floor. Next; build a frame for a console, housing a Hurst Tri-Stick shifter (Can a mounting platform for the shifter be welded to the floor like with most vehicles, positioning...yeah? Shimming side to side while just driving down the road will suck too. If so, console frame can be hollow, provided its real rigid, otherwise, solid steel, like the seat frame.). Place 4 additional floor bolt mounts for console on the trans hump; two at top near floor heater vent, run vents out the side of the console, forward the speakers. Then two more mounts right below where the shifter mounts to frame, forward corners (that’s 8 bolts in a line for the console and 4 frame connection spots with the seat frame, connect console and seat frame, rigid, right?). Rear Mount: A small thick plate, eared tabs on each side. This plate should allow for the console and universal frame, to bolt simultaneously, using the same bolts as the seat belts from inside console. This plate should also act as a mount for the seat belt mounts, the tabs of which are repurposed for this, past the sides of the console, angled. Fastening seat belts to the tabs on the ears of this plate, 1/4+ inch steel preferred.
3. A. Dash and Console: If there is room behind arm rest, which is over the item box, and the rear window reconstruction doesn't hinder speak magnet depth, or the continuity of how the console is made, place speakers in a raised back arm section, dividing up the flat surface of the rear window upgrade. If deep enough, 2-6 1/2" or one 8" speaker (mono), subwoofers. JL or Rockford? Cover. Add two additional 6 1/2 subwoofers in forward of console, in the kick plate region, cover.
B. Console/Dash: Console and dash exterior. Black Leather: Mold outer passenger edge of console to meet the dash visor running over top of the gauges, now running across that front face section of the now dash. Black Stitch on both edges of the console edges and dash visor.
C1. Interior gauge bezels: Machined aluminum. Satin Black, texture soft (maybe incorporate some of the Gold's stripes antique accents in the corners, to fill in spaces, keep black?) silver protruding ring/visor around each, then section a cut ring around the groups.
C2. Alternative Idea: semi-gloss black. Texture:? Is there a machining technique that will leave vertical lines on a flat surface about 5/8+ wide. Then on the ridge of a line, make a tiny cut line about 1mm deep of varying lengths. Lines spaced out fairly well. Say a six inch line, then moving over about 5 machine passes, a line offset and going off under into the leather. (Accents from hood stripe still might look good is there is but a few in the corners?)
John Saltz O'Huigin
(Edited again)I can't draw real well, but I can come up with a nice design. And since I'll never be able to buy this myself.... Design created by John Saltz O'Huigin.
MOONBOW 327/SWB Camper Pick-up, est. 50-100,000$?!
BUILDER? Foose or Count; depending on the skill of the frame shops being used, the interior guys, and engine builders available. Foose for wheel design. (No shit electrical mapping or loose wiring under dash or bed. Clean electrical architecture for all computer/brain and gauges. Whoever I feel is best at this.)
85 Chevy Silverado SWB. Replace Silverado emblems with Satin billet aluminum emblems reading, 'Moonbow'. Odds are you wouldn't get a 4 bolt main block if not in a 4x4. So a 2x4 conversion option would be great considering the level of modification required for this build.
Stance, ready to pounce. I don't want fender cutters. Only as high as it needs to be.
Drivetrain/Under Hood: A. 350, 4 bolt main block, built down to a 327, New crank, rod, and piston, obviously, Garret turbocharger, Eldelbrock fuel infection. Automatic trans. 4 core aluminum radiator, 2 electric fans, GREEN FLUID! A/C, heat. Additional back-up battery? (Small toolbox if room; lid and key? maybe a space behind passenger seat; diagnostic extras?) Heavy alternator.
B. Small Honda generator, or a quality 4 stroke creation with generator head, etc., if possible, over front of passenger fender well? Vented from under wheel well or grill? No flammable gas build up from exhaust under hood! Electric push button start and stop, 3 locations, at source and, on console/dash, and near tailgate. Feed from passenger fuel tank. Or an independent pump to tank set up pulling from main, with a line shut off. Thermal wrap and panel deflection on generator, no hot spot on exterior panel, color shifting issue I suppose?
Rear End: Aluminum, independent (Jaguar if possible? Something that was made by an actual car manufacturer and looks like it belongs under the truck), no cutting through frame, notch only. Hot bolts and brackets preferred. Partial frame cut/notch, rib to support cut section. (Overlap, 3d diagram between the two rear ends, match centerlines, build frame and connection supports to match, thicken to remove dimensional twist in relation to distance over force?) Catwalking is so not cool.
Front End: best racing front end equipment available. All ball joints and must have grease fittings.
Brakes: 4 wheel disk.
Hinged Door, Tailgate: Open from driver side, hinge on passenger side. Door handle, top left corner, below the body line/bend. Tailgate bezel insert: ((1)? After painting, Great Hunt scene, laser etched in paint of insert?) (Option 2)Plain, smooth. A great picture is hard to find, especially when I don't know what it should look like.
Roll Pan 1. Split bumper; satin aluminum, 1/2in? rounds. Thicker than it is height. Top; cross-etch a textured traction section of where a foot should go, in centerline with frame support location. Only the depth of the textured traction itself. The obvious spot to step. Two round aluminum connection rods for each bumper; adjustment screw on the downward press point intersecting with the frame for stepping force; No twist when stepping up. Enough distance not to toe scar the paint. But just barely.
2. The Pan Itself: 1/2-5/8 inch bead around outer edge of the bumpers insert box; leave the illusion of the bumper being able to insert into the slot, or slide into the Pan. ? (Coin the ends of the frame if they're in the way of these boxes.)
3. Back-up Lights: at each end of the Pan, 2" round, smooth face/edge to surface, slight convex, in centerline with the bumper boxes. Try to keep a 1 1/2 inch perimeter at the very least. License Plate: perimeter, chamfered, close fit, with a square travel hitch hookup behind the plate. The plate should be mounted on a travel adapter jack with pin. Pull pin, remove plate with housing, reposition to square slot on trailer.
Tail Lights: smooth face/edge with body, slightly convexed. Take 2-2 1/2"+ off past the bend the original light, past the turn, that reflector section. Weld spacer to quarter. Tail/parking and turn light only.
Front Fender: remove rectangular turn signal, replace with 2" round signal, convex, like back-up light, only yellow. Emblem: 65 Chevelle V8 like 327 style aluminum emblem, centered, 6+/- inches above 2" turn light? Below body line for sure. Emblem; Bead?/Recess emblem, with a lip that rolls into the emblem, whereas the other side then rolls curls out to surface. (probably not bad for the rear bumpers). Or 327 numeric, more modern smooth numbers. Matching the numerals used on Gold clear coat stripe on hood?
Front Bumper?: satin aluminum, same like dimensions as the original. Keep the surface of the bumper squared and machined smooth. Round need to be larger than on rear. No bolt heads showing on the surface..
All Door Handles: Aluminum billet with locks. 2006 Malibu style with finger recess, including on tail gate. Biometric thumb print pad on one end of the Billet handle? Pulling actuator pin from door gear assembly, a hardpin on the mechanism itself? Do they have that? I think below bodyline might be to far down for the doors, the tail gates ok since the gate is real thin, but I guess ??? maybe far enough down so the finger recess cuts off the bodyline? Handle maybe a 1/2-9/16-3/4-1' above the bodyline, into the slope, just forward the skin of the door?
Aluminum Billet, Satin, 3x5 side mirrors.
Hood: I would prefer a cut and tig/mig cowl of the original hood. 2-2 1/2". After market hoods sound like shit when they shut. The support ribs suck. Not as rigid. To flexible.
Grill: 86 Suburban style, full rectangle, 4 head lights on top row. Two turn signals and two fog/spot light on inside, second row. Center; Chevrolet name, recessed as they are on newer 2018+/- style? Same style of center section. With honeycomb inserts behind, black satin or same color as wheels. Smooth roll on the bezel, try and match the center Chevrolet section to the original. (Leave spot for Turbocharger insert, Ram in honeycomb? I have no freaking idea what it needs, if it doesn't need it don't worry about it.)
Interior: 1. All Black Leather: Electric bucket seats (block like cushioning, medium/firm, a good fit for the body, not squishy or sinking, but not bricks either). Bucksin floor mats. Black Carpet.
2. A two part universal mount for seating and console: 1" hardened, solid, rectangular steel for seat frame. Use the existing 4 seat mounts in floor, add 2 extra bolt mounts in center front, to keep from sinking when seated. You'll be using seat belt bolt mounts to fasten rear of seat frame to floor. Next; build a frame for a console, housing a Hurst Tri-Stick shifter (Can a mounting platform for the shifter be welded to the floor like with most vehicles, positioning...yeah? Shimming side to side while just driving down the road will suck too. If so, console frame can be hollow, provided its real rigid, otherwise, solid steel, like the seat frame.). Place 4 additional floor bolt mounts for console on the trans hump; two at top near floor heater vent, run vents out the side of the console, forward the speakers. Then two more mounts right below where the shifter mounts to frame, forward corners (that’s 8 bolts in a line for the console and 4 frame connection spots with the seat frame, connect console and seat frame, rigid, right?). Rear Mount: A small thick plate, eared tabs on each side. This plate should allow for the console and universal frame, to bolt simultaneously, using the same bolts as the seat belts from inside console. This plate should also act as a mount for the seat belt mounts, the tabs of which are repurposed for this, past the sides of the console, angled. Fastening seat belts to the tabs on the ears of this plate, 1/4+ inch steel preferred.
3. A. Dash and Console: If there is room behind arm rest, which is over the item box, and the rear window reconstruction doesn't hinder speak magnet depth, or the continuity of how the console is made, place speakers in a raised back arm section, dividing up the flat surface of the rear window upgrade. If deep enough, 2-6 1/2" or one 8" speaker (mono), subwoofers. JL or Rockford? Cover. Add two additional 6 1/2 subwoofers in forward of console, in the kick plate region, cover.
B. Console/Dash: Console and dash exterior. Black Leather: Mold outer passenger edge of console to meet the dash visor running over top of the gauges, now running across that front face section of the now dash. Black Stitch on both edges of the console edges and dash visor.
C1. Interior gauge bezels: Machined aluminum. Satin Black, texture soft (maybe incorporate some of the Gold's stripes antique accents in the corners, to fill in spaces, keep black?) silver protruding ring/visor around each, then section a cut ring around the groups.
C2. Alternative Idea: semi-gloss black. Texture:? Is there a machining technique that will leave vertical lines on a flat surface about 5/8+ wide. Then on the ridge of a line, make a tiny cut line about 1mm deep of varying lengths. Lines spaced out fairly well. Say a six inch line, then moving over about 5 machine passes, a line offset and going off under into the leather. (Accents from hood stripe still might look good is there is but a few in the corners?)
3 weeks ago (edited) | [YT] | 0