Left side would result in a harder catch under most circumstances. Belaying within one or two steps in the wall allows for more dynamic belaying and softer catches. The mix between stepping into or away from the wall while taking is far more versatile than either one on their own.
2 years ago | 7
Depends on the experience of the belayer, weight differential, and timing of jump. The left looks harder due to drag across and up. The right goes straight up.
2 years ago | 4
I don't know. I would love to see a video experimenting with this. Particular points of interest would be: 1. what, if any, impact the relative weights of the climbers/belayers have on the equation, 2. how the amount of friction in the system impacts the results, and 3. how the belayer's technique impacts the results. My intuition is "Whichever one results in the belayer traveling less is harder." Left has the possibility of the belayer traveling further. Thus if I had to pick, I'd guess that right is harder.
2 years ago | 3
Right. The left will have higher friction but it takes less force to pull the belayer forward than it does to pick them up (because gravity is pulling the belayer down).
2 years ago | 1
Ez. Definitely the right one has a harder catch. Simply put, if you are closer, you can pull harder. It's like you weigh less if you're further away.
2 years ago | 1
It will be the one to the right, as there will only be vertical forces applied to what is essentially a rope pulley system, vs vertical and horizontal forces. Even if the person on the left jumps, because they are away from the bolt line, their upward momentum won’t be nearly as effective in reducing the load force on the top bolt as the weight of the climber loads it, as they are not also moving any closer to the bolt vs standing underneath it and jumping up into the rope pulley system as the climber’s weight starts to load the top bolt. Time and again I try to explain this to people, that standing underneath the bolt line will not only give a softer catch to the climber, but will pull the belayer straight up towards the bolt and not in towards the wall, resulting in a catch that’s softer and safer for the climber (less rope for the climber to fall through) and safer for the belayer, since they won’t be pulled into the wall, only up towards the first bolt.
2 years ago | 1
I think the first case is better for the climber but very dangerous for the belayer
2 years ago | 0
Right, force exerted by belayer is from momentum plus gravity. On the left it is mostly only momentum with little from gravity as the belayer travels mostly horizontal.
2 years ago | 1
So v^2=u^2+2as V=0,hence a=(u^2)/2s (or-a, however since it’s deceleration I’ll leave it as a) F=ma, so F=(mu^2)/2s Therefore the greater the distance traveled during deceleration the lower the force acting on a climber. Since in the left example a person on the ground moves a greater distance then in the right, the climber has to cover greater distance as well. So left one is probably a softer catch. Probably…
2 years ago (edited) | 2
Left, the tighter angle on the 1st draw adds more rope friction. Rope drag increases the fall factor. Theoretically infinite rope drag at the 1st draw in the system provides no give for the climber because the infinite force is a static anchor.
2 years ago | 0
With great drag, for big falls, with kids, we do what is on the left. The belayer can run towards the wall much faster than they could give rope. The kid is so light that, if you let go of the belaying device, it doesn't speed up.
2 years ago | 0
Left one will be harder. More friction in the system so less rope to dissipate the energy. And the belayer cannot work properly
2 years ago | 1
right is a harder catch for sure. left allows the belayer to move into the fall and allow the rope to stretch giving a softer catch:)
2 years ago | 0
The right side, less rope in the system and you can only jump so high. The belayer travels a lot more distance on the left which equates into a softer fall for the climber.
2 years ago | 0
The left one is harder. There is more friction between climber and belayer. Because of that the belayer will be less displaced, means harder catch.
2 years ago (edited) | 0
Left side. The extra rope is negated by the horizontal drag of belayer and more friction provided in the bottom quickdraw. The right side is a straighter pull meaning less friction and the belayer (pending weight) will be lifted further softening the shockload
2 years ago | 0
Left. That nearly 90° bend the rope takes from the bottom bolt to the belayer will not transmit much force to the belayer.
2 years ago | 0
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Which Scenario will Cause a Harder Catch for the Climber?
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2 years ago | [YT] | 166