When we sliced this Berger bullet in half, one half of the lead core fell out. This illustrates the basic cup-and-core bullet. The jacket material, usually gilding metal of 95% copper, 5% zinc, starts as a flat disc and is "drawn" into a long tube. A rod of lead is inserted into this tube, and then the unit is swaged to final shape. Sometimes the lead pokes above the end of the gilding metal, sometimes it's flush, sometimes it sits well below, making a hollow point. Often a plastic tip is added. But in all cases the two metals are never fused, neither mechanically nor molecularly nor glued. This is why the two pieces are infamous for separating on impact or shortly thereafter. In some cases this can lead to increased hemorrhaging, in others to poor penetration. The higher the impact energy, the more likely the bullet will break apart. Cup-core bullets over the decades have proven quite effective on "softer" targets like deer or elk/moose broadside chest hits at lower impact velocities. Deadly in 30-30, 35 Remington, 45-70 inside of 100 yards; 30-08, 270 Win., 30-06 and similar at, say, 200 to 400 yards; magnums like 300 WM, 7mm RM at 300 yards to 500 yards. No hard and fast rules and distances, but this gives you a rough idea of what to expect. Many extreme range shooters claim cup-cores like Bergers are devastating due to tumbling and/or breakup beyond 500 yards. Have you ever had a cup-core bullet fail to reach the vitals? What was the shot placement/angle and distance to target?
Ron Spomer Outdoors
When we sliced this Berger bullet in half, one half of the lead core fell out. This illustrates the basic cup-and-core bullet. The jacket material, usually gilding metal of 95% copper, 5% zinc, starts as a flat disc and is "drawn" into a long tube. A rod of lead is inserted into this tube, and then the unit is swaged to final shape. Sometimes the lead pokes above the end of the gilding metal, sometimes it's flush, sometimes it sits well below, making a hollow point. Often a plastic tip is added. But in all cases the two metals are never fused, neither mechanically nor molecularly nor glued. This is why the two pieces are infamous for separating on impact or shortly thereafter. In some cases this can lead to increased hemorrhaging, in others to poor penetration. The higher the impact energy, the more likely the bullet will break apart. Cup-core bullets over the decades have proven quite effective on "softer" targets like deer or elk/moose broadside chest hits at lower impact velocities. Deadly in 30-30, 35 Remington, 45-70 inside of 100 yards; 30-08, 270 Win., 30-06 and similar at, say, 200 to 400 yards; magnums like 300 WM, 7mm RM at 300 yards to 500 yards. No hard and fast rules and distances, but this gives you a rough idea of what to expect. Many extreme range shooters claim cup-cores like Bergers are devastating due to tumbling and/or breakup beyond 500 yards. Have you ever had a cup-core bullet fail to reach the vitals? What was the shot placement/angle and distance to target?
9 months ago | [YT] | 922