I just wanted to share a comment from @justinw1765 which he made on one of my recent videos. Lots of useful stuff here! I've been wanting to experiment with thinned silicone on regular fabrics myself, so this info is really useful! 👇👇👇
@justinw1765 • 8 hours ago
Silicone is great for a lot of things. I've thinned out silicone with naphtha and treated clothes to add a very long lasting DWR. You have to use clothes/fabrics that haven't had a DWR treatment though (if you use something that had a DWR treatment, the silicone will not bond to the clothing). Also, you want the clothes/fabric to be sufficiently breathable to begin with, because it will lose some breathability depending on how much silicone per volume of naphtha you use. (A couple thin, light, breathable baselayer shirts both treated with thinned silicone and worn over top of each other, in combo with a windshirt with the right water resistance, breathability, etc over a fishnet baselayer makes a great wet weather combo for all but the hardest, worst rain. Sort of works like Paramo, but far longer lasting between treatments and not as hot. Important that the windjacket be made out of polyester and not nylon, as nylon swells too much with moisture and loses breathability).
You can do DIY anti odor treatments with a fresh 9 volt battery, some pure salt dissolved in some hot water, and some copper wire (attach a copper wire to each battery terminal and suspend it over a glass jar with the copper wires in the water). After a 4 hours or so, you have a decent amount of small particle copper chloride ions in the water. Buy some do it at home dye, follow the dyeing process and put that water-copper chloride suspension in with the dye, and it will bond the ions to the fibers, making a copper based version of the silver based Polygiene (silver chloride bonded to clothing fibers during the dyeing process). If I remember correctly, copper is even stronger and more broad spectrum of an antimicrobial than silver. Obviously works best with clothes/fabrics that have had little to no pre dyeing (hint, white clothes work best for this typically).
Bamboo layered with a couple of layers of S-glass fiberglass cloth and high strength, lamination epoxy, and then with the inner diaphragms punctured and spray foam sprayed in the middle, makes some remarkably tough and strong for the weight fixed length, budget poles. (Though, carbon poles seem to have gotten less expensive in recent years and there are some good deals out there).
Ghee keeps longer than olive oil. Refined coconut oil probably keeps the second best. Avocado oil, while it doesn't keep as well as the former two, is more multi-functional, as it works as a great pot/pan non stick because it has an unusually high smoke point. Rub some on the pot/pan for low water cooking. If you're just boiling water or the like, no real point.
A flat piece of strong for the weight fabric with some loops attached in combo with a stick in the ground, makes a great and lighter windscreen than metal ones. Make a sideways V with the sharp point facing towards the wind and the stove in between the open part. Obviously the fabric goes over the stick in the ground to make the > or <.
Thinner alpaca-synthetic blend socks, with thicker and larger polypropylene socks over them, make a great combo for colder and/or wetter (and not warm) conditions, as you can wring or swing out almost all the water from the polypropylene socks fast (the PP material itself doesn't absorb any water, water just gets in between the fiber and yarn spaces, hence the wringing and/or swinging out). Meanwhile, since they are not directly on your skin, they don't get near as stanky as they would if you wore them as a direct, first layer on your feet. I prefer such combos in combo with hiking sandals, even for cold weather, because it all dries so much faster than socks in combo with trail runners and especially boots. (But if it is really windy, and/or very wet, having an "over sock" made of of thin, wind and water resistant, polyester with DRW treatment, fabric, is very helpful to necessary. Or if it is very cold, you need a make an insulated over sock [kapok fiber or perforated butyl rubber in combo with quick drying liner fabric] works great for the insulation]. Unfortunately, these have to be homemade. But not hard to do with basic sewing skills).
Not my idea originally, but a piece of copper flat bar strip, attached to a gas stove to go down the side of the can canister (top part is near the flame area), helps a canister stove to work much better in colder temps (the copper conducts heat to the canister warming it up). If you want to look it up, I believe it was dubbed the Moulder strip after the guy (Bob Moulder [spelling?]), who came up with it (and shared it on the backpackinglight forum).
Oscar Hikes
I just wanted to share a comment from @justinw1765 which he made on one of my recent videos. Lots of useful stuff here! I've been wanting to experiment with thinned silicone on regular fabrics myself, so this info is really useful! 👇👇👇
@justinw1765 • 8 hours ago
Silicone is great for a lot of things. I've thinned out silicone with naphtha and treated clothes to add a very long lasting DWR. You have to use clothes/fabrics that haven't had a DWR treatment though (if you use something that had a DWR treatment, the silicone will not bond to the clothing). Also, you want the clothes/fabric to be sufficiently breathable to begin with, because it will lose some breathability depending on how much silicone per volume of naphtha you use. (A couple thin, light, breathable baselayer shirts both treated with thinned silicone and worn over top of each other, in combo with a windshirt with the right water resistance, breathability, etc over a fishnet baselayer makes a great wet weather combo for all but the hardest, worst rain. Sort of works like Paramo, but far longer lasting between treatments and not as hot. Important that the windjacket be made out of polyester and not nylon, as nylon swells too much with moisture and loses breathability).
You can do DIY anti odor treatments with a fresh 9 volt battery, some pure salt dissolved in some hot water, and some copper wire (attach a copper wire to each battery terminal and suspend it over a glass jar with the copper wires in the water). After a 4 hours or so, you have a decent amount of small particle copper chloride ions in the water. Buy some do it at home dye, follow the dyeing process and put that water-copper chloride suspension in with the dye, and it will bond the ions to the fibers, making a copper based version of the silver based Polygiene (silver chloride bonded to clothing fibers during the dyeing process). If I remember correctly, copper is even stronger and more broad spectrum of an antimicrobial than silver. Obviously works best with clothes/fabrics that have had little to no pre dyeing (hint, white clothes work best for this typically).
Bamboo layered with a couple of layers of S-glass fiberglass cloth and high strength, lamination epoxy, and then with the inner diaphragms punctured and spray foam sprayed in the middle, makes some remarkably tough and strong for the weight fixed length, budget poles. (Though, carbon poles seem to have gotten less expensive in recent years and there are some good deals out there).
Ghee keeps longer than olive oil. Refined coconut oil probably keeps the second best. Avocado oil, while it doesn't keep as well as the former two, is more multi-functional, as it works as a great pot/pan non stick because it has an unusually high smoke point. Rub some on the pot/pan for low water cooking. If you're just boiling water or the like, no real point.
A flat piece of strong for the weight fabric with some loops attached in combo with a stick in the ground, makes a great and lighter windscreen than metal ones. Make a sideways V with the sharp point facing towards the wind and the stove in between the open part. Obviously the fabric goes over the stick in the ground to make the > or <.
Thinner alpaca-synthetic blend socks, with thicker and larger polypropylene socks over them, make a great combo for colder and/or wetter (and not warm) conditions, as you can wring or swing out almost all the water from the polypropylene socks fast (the PP material itself doesn't absorb any water, water just gets in between the fiber and yarn spaces, hence the wringing and/or swinging out). Meanwhile, since they are not directly on your skin, they don't get near as stanky as they would if you wore them as a direct, first layer on your feet. I prefer such combos in combo with hiking sandals, even for cold weather, because it all dries so much faster than socks in combo with trail runners and especially boots. (But if it is really windy, and/or very wet, having an "over sock" made of of thin, wind and water resistant, polyester with DRW treatment, fabric, is very helpful to necessary. Or if it is very cold, you need a make an insulated over sock [kapok fiber or perforated butyl rubber in combo with quick drying liner fabric] works great for the insulation]. Unfortunately, these have to be homemade. But not hard to do with basic sewing skills).
Not my idea originally, but a piece of copper flat bar strip, attached to a gas stove to go down the side of the can canister (top part is near the flame area), helps a canister stove to work much better in colder temps (the copper conducts heat to the canister warming it up). If you want to look it up, I believe it was dubbed the Moulder strip after the guy (Bob Moulder [spelling?]), who came up with it (and shared it on the backpackinglight forum).
1 year ago (edited) | [YT] | 58