Really interesting responses, thanks everyone!! I'd like to challenge that classic "board climbing isn't technical, it's all about strength" statement. While I think certain board climbs can definitely be more physically challenging than a standard gym climb, I don't think they are any less technical on average. (Though i do think the technique involved can be *different*.) In fact, we get sent a LOT of fail videos of board climbing (thanks to all who submit!!) and most of the time the problem is just as much about technical errors as it is potential strength limitations. In fact, many times the climber is clearly more than strong enough for the climb, but their technique errors make it impossible for them to apply that strength on the wall. Will be delving into this with the next couple videos (and maybe more!). :) EDIT: new video on board climbing technique with Kyra Condie is out now! https://youtu.be/3mrHLqhEJX0 Part 2 will be released in a week or two :)
1 year ago (edited) | 24
It gets people used to higher levels of finger and contact strength that’s not found elsewhere, so when something feels easy because they could pull through, they never take into account the finger strength required to hold the positions, and that happens at a large scale and then everyone adjusts for it rather than questioning it
1 year ago | 7
Moonboarding requires specific adaptations that rarely translate directly to other styles of climbing - and vice versa. To get better at moonboarding, you gotta climb on the moonboard. That's also the answer for why you climb v10 and get shut down by a moonboard v7.
1 year ago | 19
A reddit survey of max grade across moonboard kilterboard indoor gym and outdoor climbing showed that on average across the sample of 50 or so people that max moonboard grade was a V-grade or two lower than the other forms. The above would suggest sandbag, however as the climbing is all 2D, it must be less technically complex than the other forms, hence requires more finger strength for a given grade, creating a perception of difficulty...
1 year ago | 21
I am 6,4(almost 2m) and have big hands. I have been climbing for the last two years. I can't hold shit on a moon board. Every single hold is so bad for me, I have no clue if I will ever be able to train with this thing.
1 year ago | 8
It depends on which Moonboard set we are talking about, but generally it's sandbagged
1 year ago | 3
It started as a board for high level climbers … they had no idea how to grade the lower grades. And people adjusted to the grades that where already established.
1 year ago | 1
Moonboarding is pretty easy when you’re strong. It’s arguably easier than outdoor bouldering because the latter requires you to learn micro beta & have a diverse movement pool.
1 year ago | 10
when Shawn struggles that hard on V10 and V11, you know its sandbagged
1 year ago | 1
Gym grades are soft but the moonboard is sandbagged, even compared to outdoor bouldering, unless you’re used to Jtree grades, then it probably feels about right
1 year ago | 8
I’ve heard from a few pros that if you can send a grade on the moon board, then you can send roughly a grade or 2 harder outside… so I’d say it’s sandbagged and if you go to the right gym then they will set pretty accurately with grades
1 year ago | 1
I think my gym is way more sandbagged than the 2016 moonboard. Most V7s on the floor are damn near impossible but on the board I’ve sent 6 or 7 V7s and 2 V8s. Definitely depends location to location but it’s probably more adaptation to your gym or the boards style than an actual disparity in grades. I think the angle of the board is the biggest deterrent in my gym. Most users at my gym stick to the 2019 20° due to how much “easier” the climbs are. I actually struggle more on the 2019 than the 16 just cause I’m used to climbing roofs and using my whole body to hang onto things rather than just using my fingers. Would say all of the holds on both boards are actually pretty large in comparison to a lot of the steep south’s lines. Lots of 4-6mm holds on V7s outside when the boards smallest might be 10mm. So personally the boards are soft just awkward more than anything.
1 year ago | 3
The holds are small and fingery. Not every hard climb is based on small fingery holds to achieve that grade, indoors or outdoors. It can easily not be various people’s style. It’s also generally harder than kilter board.
1 year ago (edited) | 6
There was a moonboard 2024 video with aidan roberts, and a few other pro climbers on the wedge climbing channel, and when aidan set a problem and guessed 7a, everyone thought it was at least 1-2 grades harder. Pretty freaking sandbagged but i still like to compare to the benchmark grades.
1 year ago | 0
It might depend on the set you have access to (I'm not familiar with all of them) but based on what I have climbed, I don't think it's necessarily sandbagged. I think it's just a different style of climbing where if you're not used to it, it can feel pretty punishing. Some stuff can be hard but I think like with all things (outdoors, regular gym sets) you'll always get those problems that don't feel like the respective grade or a little weird. Overall I think it's still a really good training tool...definitely taught me a lot about maintaining body tension.
1 year ago | 1
The Moonboard community is it's own club within climbing, and that club's ethos encourage sandbagging. It has it's own style of holds, own style of climbing, and borderline it's own grading system. Moonboard climbers are like the Jeep Wrangler owners. It's designed to accomplish something, which it does well, but not really better than a lot of other options out there but it's unique enough that everyone still in the club is extremely proud of it. Meanwhile, everyone else has moved on to the new Bronco/Kilter club that does all the same things better, at higher speeds and in more comfort. Meanwhile, I 4x4 in an old truck and wish I had a Tension board.
1 year ago | 0
Hooper's Beta
Why does everyone think the Moonboard is sandbagged?
1 year ago | [YT] | 39