udini - Invidious

udini

the Art, Science, Training & Technique of Climbing and Bouldering, presented by Udo "udini" Neumann.
Since his 1993's cult book "Performance Rock Climbing", Udo has been on the forefront of modern climbing and bouldering with his books "Lizenz zum Klettern", "Climbing at the limit of human performance" (with Klem Loskot) and "Lizenz zum Bouldern" as well as many DVDs about better climbing and bouldering. From 2009 till 2017, Udo coached the successful German Bouldering Team and published the "Boulder World Cup reports" as well as videos about the German Bouldering Team trainings here on this channel. Nowadays Udo consults several climbing federations and coaches teams and individuals around the globe.

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udini mediaworks
Udo Neumann
Thurnerstr.64a
51069 Köln
Deutschland
E-Mail: udinimedia@gmail.com
Telefon: +49 221 68 448 -2

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udini

In my next video I'll show you how to improve your athlete's motor learning. Motor learning is the process of acquiring, improving, and retaining skills involving movement and coordination. It is a complex, long-term process that results in relatively permanent changes in the ability to perform motor tasks, driven by practice, experience, and feedback.
So, basically a lot of what we want to achieve in climbing performance coaching!
The OPTIMAL theory of motor learning (short for Optimizing Performance Through Intrinsic Motivation and Attention for Learning) is a framework proposed by Gabriele Wulf and Rebecca Lewthwaite (2016). It integrates motivational and attentional factors to explain how humans learn and refine motor skills most effectively. Instead of focusing only on practice schedules and feedback, the theory emphasizes how psychological states and attentional focus shape performance and long-term learning.

2 weeks ago | [YT] | 18

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udini

Transfer of Momentum

3 weeks ago | [YT] | 30

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udini

Preparing a video about how JJ Gibson’s work is surprisingly relevant to rock climbing — almost as if he designed the theory while hanging from a cliff face.

1 month ago | [YT] | 12

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udini

Nikolai Bernstein would love climbing, his view of movement as adaptive, dynamic, and context-sensitive fits rock climbing perfectly. Considering for instance the Degrees of Freedom Problem is pure coaching gold! Freezing degrees of freedom in motor learning refers to a strategy used by the central nervous system to simplify the control of movement when learning a new motor skill. (Degrees of freedom in this context refer to the numerous independent variables, such as joint angles and muscle activations, that need to be controlled to produce coordinated movement).

2 months ago | [YT] | 9

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udini

Amazing Annie Sanders Air Swimming

2 months ago | [YT] | 15

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udini

Climbing Performance Coaching now available on our site (already sold in >60 countries), at Apple Books and, if you prefer paper, in all Amazon market places.

2 months ago | [YT] | 9

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udini

"Don’t speak negatively about yourself, even as a joke. Your body doesn't know the difference. Words are energy and cast spells, that's why it's called spelling.
Change the way you speak about yourself and you can change your life. What you're not changing, you're also choosing."
— Bruce Lee
cited in Climbing Performance Coaching p.404