WheeliePete

A couple of swipes with the magic erase tool to remove the rope and the tenor of this picture changes dramatically!

2 months ago | [YT] | 3

WheeliePete

Had a question about if there were "points" under the rotor on a 22R series engine distributor. There aren't "points" in the traditional sense where they would control spark dwell, but there is a signal rotor and pickup coil assembly that you have to make sure is properly air-gapped. It's a magnetic trigger for the igniter. The spec is .008 - .016" (0.2 - 0.4 mm). I'm attaching a picture from the 1985 factory service manual for reference.

7 months ago | [YT] | 5

WheeliePete

Sometimes it all just comes together... Willamette Pass Ski Area February 8th, 2025

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8 months ago (edited) | [YT] | 5

WheeliePete

Posting 3 pictures from a 1988 Toyota Truck Factory Service Manual regarding timing marks on the chain and re-installing a distributor (22R & 22RE) to help answer a viewer's questions. (Use the little arrow at the side of the picture to advance to the next pictures.)

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1 year ago (edited) | [YT] | 14

WheeliePete

Posting this pic from a factory service manual that shows the differences between the auto-locking hubs and the manual locking hubs. Had a question in the Aisin hub video that might have something to do with an auto to manual locking hub conversion. I've seen attempted "conversions" from auto to manual locking that didn't work because you need to change out all the auto-locking hub guts for the correct ones that go with the manual locking assembly. You can't just take an auto hub and slap on the dial, cover, and clutch from a locking hub. It is an easy swap though if you just get all the parts together. If I remember correctly, when you're swapping an auto-locking hub to a manual locking one on a U.S. truck you'll need the manual locking hub parts from 1986+. The auto locking hubs were an option starting in 1986 in the U.S. The early (79-85) solid axle U.S. truck's manual locking hubs were a bit different length or something. I forget exactly what the difference was, it's been a long time since I messed with it.

2 years ago (edited) | [YT] | 10

WheeliePete

Had a question today on the 22R water pump video asking if you need to put sealer on the one large bolt that passes through the water pump and timing cover on the 22R series engines. There isn't a bolt that I know of on there that requires sealer other than the top most bolt of the oil pump. I'll attach pics from the factory service manual. The reason that the timing cover bolt that passes through the water pump, timing cover, and into the block doesn't need sealer is because it's being run into a blind hole in the block and has the timing cover gasket and the water pump gasket protecting the bolt hole from oil and coolant exposure. Toyota is pretty good about calling out special procedures when needed in their factory service manuals (FSM). See the two attached pictures for the water pump assembly and oil pump assembly instructions. The FSM for the water pump is pretty straight forward, but for the oil pump they make a note in the exploded diagram and then really call out the need for sealant in the actual assembly instructions.

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2 years ago (edited) | [YT] | 9

WheeliePete

I know I vary a bit with the content on this channel. I started it a long time ago just for fun and never really settled on one theme. A few years ago I got back into climbing after many years away and fell in love with it all over again. I'm still going to do videos on YouTube of subjects other than climbing (I've got some Toyota repair videos in the works), but I decided to start a dedicated Instagram channel just for my climbing media. If you're into climbing, you might want to check it out and give it a follow. www.instagram.com/mychosspile/

3 years ago | [YT] | 0

WheeliePete

Had a comment on a video this week from a viewer who was curious about packing method for the motorcycles on backcountry discovery routes. I'll have to do a video about what I do at some point, but I thought I could put in some pics of how I pack my bikes. What I've found that works for me is to have some form of a rear rack frame system that supports soft side bags (I love my Wolfman bags: amzn.to/3v82QbW ). Then I usually either have a waterproof duffle bag or a larger tail bag, a tank bag, and then a front fender bag. This type of setup has allowed me to get pretty much everything I've needed on the bike for multi-day trips. And with moto-camping, if you're packed for 2 days you're packed for 10 because you'll pass through towns along the way. It's not like backpacking where you might be away from civilization for a week.
Amazon links to luggage and gear I use for setting up my bikes for moto-camping below

Wolfman saddle bags: amzn.to/3v82QbW

Tank bag similar to the one I use: amzn.to/3Ovz2h7

Fender bag similar to the one I use on the front: amzn.to/3L9ffSA (Tip: If they aren't there already, drill small holes in the hooks that grab the fender lip. Then drill the same size holes in the fender plastic and run small zip-ties to secure the bag hooks to the fender. This way there's almost no chance the bag will fall off.

Rear tail bag similar to the one I use: amzn.to/3MpMgtX

If I'm worried about range I'll pack my 1 gallon Rotopax gas can under the duffle bag on the tail. These containers are expensive, but totally worth it in my opinion. They are burly and don't leak: amzn.to/36Ezbhc

If you end up buying a product from one of the above links, Amazon will pay my channel a small commission on the purchase, no extra cost to you, but it does help my channel out.

#DRZ
#KLR
#KLR650
#motocamping
#BDR

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3 years ago (edited) | [YT] | 8

WheeliePete

Inspired by my friend Rob ( ‪@oldshovel‬ ), I'm finally getting around to a long-standing project I've had to rebuild/resurrect one of my old, beloved Kona mountain bikes. Was looking at it tonight and thought I should show you all what we used to do before clutch-type rear derailleurs where a thing.

3 years ago (edited) | [YT] | 5

WheeliePete

Doing some basic maintenance on my 2006 KLR650 this week. I was pleased to find the valve train to be in beautiful condition. I got this bike with less than 5,000 miles on it and now we're pushing 24,000. I had to shim the valves at 6,000 miles (initial breakin valve clearance check) but they haven't moved since. All were right in the middle of their allowable spec range. The internet is awash with discussion about what oil to run, but I've run this bike since I got it on Rotella 15W-40 T4 oil (JASO MA/MA2 rated for wet clutch) and it looks like it's doing a great job.
#KLR
#KLR650
#TractorFactor
#ROTELLA

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3 years ago (edited) | [YT] | 8