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BETHEL FARMS AND HERBS
The fertilizer schedule that makes onion farmers smile at harvest
One farmer once told me,
“I apply fertilizer… but my onions remain small.”
When we checked his farm, the problem was not the fertilizer.
It was the timing.
Farming is not just about what you apply…
It is about when you apply it.
Here is a simple onion fertilizer schedule every serious farmer should understand:
Before planting (land preparation stage)
This is where success begins.
- Apply well-decomposed manure
- Mix it properly into the soil
- This improves soil structure and water retention
If you skip this stage, your onions will struggle from day one.
At planting/transplanting
Your onions need a strong start.
- Apply a basal fertilizer rich in phosphorus
- This helps root development
- Strong roots = strong bulbs later
Weak roots? Expect small onions.
Two to three weeks after planting
Now the crop is establishing.
- Apply nitrogen fertilizer
- This boosts leaf growth
- Leaves are important because they feed the bulb
No leaves, no bulb. Simple.
Five to six weeks after planting
This is the bulb formation stage.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer
- Focus on potassium for bulb development
- This is where size is determined
Many farmers fail here.
They feed leaves… but forget the bulb.
Eight weeks onwards
Reduce fertilizer application.
- Too much nitrogen at this stage delays maturity
- It can also reduce storage quality
You want firm, dry bulbs… not soft ones.
Final lesson from the field
Onion farming is timing.
Not guessing. Not copying your neighbor blindly.
Feed the crop according to its stage…
And it will reward you at harvest.
Ignore the schedule…
And you will keep asking,
“Why are my onions small?”
Farm smart. Timing is everything.
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BETHEL FARMS AND HERBS
Common Garden Pests: Identify and Control
Protect your garden from these 25 common pests:
1. Aphids: Sap-sucking insects damaging plants.
2. Armyworms: Caterpillars consuming foliage in groups.
3. Asparagus Beetle: Targets asparagus plants.
4. Cabbage Looper: Caterpillars chewing holes in leaves.
5. Cabbage Worms: Green caterpillars on cabbage and cruciferous plants.
6. Corn Earworm: Caterpillars attacking corn ears and fruits.
7. Cucumber Beetle: Transmits diseases like bacterial wilt.
8. Cutworms: Caterpillars cutting down young plants.
9. Earwig: Feeds on leaves, flowers, and fruits.
10. European Corn Borer: Moth larvae damaging corn stalks.
11. Flea Beetle: Jumps, chewing small holes in leaves.
12. Grasshopper: Consumes various plants, causing severe damage.
13. Leafhopper: Sucks sap, potentially spreading diseases.
14. Leafminer: Larvae tunneling into leaves.
15. Mexican Bean Beetle: Skeletonizes bean leaves.
16. Potato Beetle: Targets potato plants.
17. Psyllid: Sucks sap, stunting growth.
18. Root Maggots: Larvae feed on roots.
19. Slug & Snail: Mollusks damaging leaves and stems.
20. Sowbug & Pillbug: Feed on decaying material and seedlings.
21. Spider Mites: Suck plant juices, causing stippling.
22. Squash Bugs: Damage squash leaves and vines.
23. Thrips: Feed on sap, leaving silver streaks.
24. Tomato Hornworm: Defoliates tomato plants.
25. Whiteflies: Spread diseases, sucking sap.
Control Methods:
1. Natural predators
2. Organic sprays
3. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies
4. Physical barriers
5. Crop rotation
6. Biological controls
7. Cultural controls
Monitor and Act:
Regularly inspect your garden to identify pests early.
1 year ago | [YT] | 1
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